The Cathedral and the Kabaka

Yesterday the Cathedral at Lugazi was consecrated. Bry'Chell and I were invited. I went because I want to see as much of the country as I can while I'm here and that includes cathedral consecrations. Actually, I was as interested in seeing the countryside on the ride there as in the doings at the cathedral. Bry'Chell stayed home. She had been at a school party on Saturday and I figured another long day on Sunday would be too much with school on Monday. Bry'Chell does not like long church stuff. Neither do I, but I tolerate it better than she does.

The ceremony was several hours long and mostly in Luganda, so I only understood a little bit. Fortunately, there were programs available (for 2,000 Ush) that had the words and all the songs. It was handy to know what was coming next.

When we arrived, still in the countryside, we could see the cathedral, Queen of Peace, at the top of the hill with a mass of people streaming up the road. Although the cathedral is quite beautiful and large enough to hold about 2,500 people, don't think American or European cathedral, it doesn't look quite that finished. The structure, although very churchy is more open than most Western cathedrals--it's not necessary to provide protection from the cold--only the rain. Ventilation is more important than insulation.

When we walked up to the top of the hill, it was packed with people. We were ushered inside, at the back of the section where the sisters were seated. Interestingly, with the sisters were a mix of orphans, students, friends and male religious (although the guys had their own section).

I would guess there were probably three times as many people outside as inside. Tents were set up outside and the loudspeakers made the sound outside more audible than inside.

Present were the usual assortment, lots of bishops and priests, as well as the usual politicians and dignitaries. Instead of Knights of Columbus and Knights of Peter Claver, there are Buganda warriors with spears rather than swords.

Unfortunately, in Uganda there's this practice of giving speeches after the already too long church stuff. So after three hours of liturgy and ritual, we were subjected to another two hours of speeches. Ugandans expect this. The American in me gets really restless, really quickly. My attention span is not that long.

One interesting attendee was the Buganda King, the Kabaka. Uganda is made up of many tribal kingdoms. The country itself is an artificial colonial designation. People's real identity is with their tribe. Each tribe has some kind of leader--usually a king. The largest tribe is the Buganda. Their king is the Kabaka. People really, really look up to the Kabaka. He's their hero. I don't understand it and I probably never will.

The Kabaka was present. I'm sure he has ceremonial dress, but yesterday he was in a suit and tie. After the shindigs were over he walked through the crowd under a large umbrella with his retinue. People were pretty excited to see him. I was more curious than excited. Although, having seen both the president and the king, I can tell you that people were more excited about the king.

One nice thing about stuff in Uganda afterward they always feed you. After five plus hours in church I was hungry and glad for the food. As usual, it was good. I'm even beginning to appreciate matooke.